For most of us, hair is something we wear every day.  Yes, wear.  We wear our hair each and every day.  We curl it, cut it, straighten it, colour it, wash it, braid it, pin it, you name it and we’ve done it!  Hair is a beautiful thing, and when I met balayage expert Abby Haliti I knew I had found my hairmate for life.  People are always asking me how my hair colour blends so naturally, so let me take you on a little journey inside one of New York’s top celebrity salons and into the chair of thee Abby Haliti. The first time I went to see Abby I was nervous. What’s she going to think of my hair?  Is she really as good as they all say?  I don’t understand how my roots aren’t going to show when my hair grows.  The second time, I popped into Abby’s chair like nobody’s business and let her work her balayage magic.

Balayage is a French word meaning ‘to sweep’. When done correctly, this French colouring technique creates a natural sun-kissed look (think 5 year old girl in the heart of summer) and soft re-growth lines, so you don’t see harsh roots peeping through after a month, or even a year (no joke!).  I left one year between my appointments with Abby to see for myself how my roots would grow in and I was truly amazed with the lack of upkeep required, which is perfect for my hectic life.

Abby works inside the bright and opulent Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa, which is nestled within the Loews Regency Hotel on Park Avenue. Occupying 10,000 square feet, Julien Farel’s booming playground is no stranger to celebrities, including my personal favs Olivia Palermo, Ivanka Trump and Kate Moss. Abby’s name has graced the pages of The New York Times, Vogue and Elle to name a few, known for her work on Olivia Palermo’s coveted colour. Having also worked on the manes of Sarah Jessica Parker and Gisele Bündchen, Abby has become one of the most sought after colourists, attracting clients from around the globe. I had the chance to sit-down with Abby during my recent trip to New York City, where she shares with me her story success, her passion for balayage and the inspiration behind it all.

 

What is balayage?

Balayage refers to the process of sweeping colour onto hair using a paddle. It gives the colourist  freedom to place the colour where they choose, unlike foils which are much more precise. What makes the growing out process of balayage natural is the way the colour is applied, by getting close to the root. The very thin application of colour really disguises the root, so when hair grows out it’s far more blended.  Balayage creates the most natural looking results because the highlights are painted by hand and are scattered throughout the hair for a more sun-kissed, haphazard pattern. When using foils you work row by row, which makes the highlight pattern look very linear and grid-like. With balayage you have more flexibility on where you want to place the highlights so the resulting pattern looks more natural. It’s not just the technique, it’s the technician.

What made you want a career in hair colour?

I chose colour because I think it’s one of the only ways to really change a womans appearance . It can be very intense. A cut can be hidden but with colour you can make a big impact and can be more playful.

It’s no surprise in the world of hair that you are not a fan of foils. When did you break away from colouring with foils to focus solely on balayage?

I broke away from foils 10 years ago. Back in the day when I used to cut and colour I had one client who would always come in for a blow dry, and I loved her hair colour which was done using the balayage technique. I couldn’t attend balayage classes back then because they were so expensive. I never had a resume, so I got lucky one day when one of my clients referred me to her client, who explained to me the process of balayage. After hearing how balayage works I thought to myself ‘I have to do this!’. I went to the Academy and took hands-on courses to learn balayage.

Where did you get your hands-on start with balayage?

I studied under Nancy Braun who is now in L.A. at the L’Oreal Academy. We call her the Queen of Balayage; she is very inspirational!

How long does it take to learn balayage?

To master balayage it takes around 3 years.

How do you educate your clients on the best hair colour for them?

When you are creative you are always over thinking things and wanting to do so much! Working with colour is not easy. You really have to take a step back because you are dealing with chemistry.  You want to be creative but at the same time realistic. You can’t just go pink or red. If someone is meant to be brunette I can accentuate it and make it a bit different, but I have to be realistic and tell the truth.

Have you ever turned away a client because they were requesting something you didn’t think would look right?

Absolutely! I recently had a client come in with short grey hair. She had a beautiful cut but two tones of colour in her hair. For women who are 85% grey like this client, adding a colour and highlights to an already sharp haircut can be overwhelming, so I told her she had to go platinum. Less is more, so when it comes to colour I like to keep things simple. When I had finished with this client I had taken 10 years off her age.  She ended up coming back for another round but the grey had blended with the platinum and created such a sophisticated look that I refused to touch her hair. It looked so beautiful the way it was so I let her go natural and she loved it! The cut is the foundation and the colour is the make-up. If you don’t have a good foundation the colour isn’t going to look good.

You work on a range of different hair types, colours and cuts. How do you know what is going to suit someone?

The hair talks to me. When I studied with Nancy Braun she was so meticulous and she really made me step back and think about what is best for the client. With balayage, you either have it or you don’t. People ask me all the time what my placements are and the truth is, I don’t know.  I pick up the hair, I see the movement and it just talks to me.

How do you achieve Olivia Palermo’s look?

When I work on Olivia I do just 6 highlights. People look at me like ‘What?!’, but she is so natural so I accentuate her face with 6 highlights.

Who is your inspiration?

My inspiration comes from Nancy Braun. She is truly a giver, and she is so fascinating! I would also have to say myself. I love beauty and women. I’ve never been intimated by a beautiful woman, I just want to enhance her beauty.

Why is it so important for you to educate women on hair care?

When I walk around the city I see women with beautiful bags and shoes which cost a lot, and I believe hair is worth the same investment. Women are always thinking about their next purchase so the thought of hair colour may be muted from their minds, but hair is the one accessory you wear every day. Men and women will spend a fortune on expensive products but what they really need to do is stop over-processing and  spending too much on products, and learn how to care for their hair from someone who is trained and knowledgeable.  I have people coming to me wanting highlights to start at their root but I teach them that I need to create depth and contour the face.  A single colour process or foils won’t do the trick, so I like to educate clients about the benefits of balayage.

What advice do you have for those with overly processed hair?

Before you spend money on products you need to educate yourself on colour. Colour is first, product is secondary. Educating women on hair colour starts with the process of highlighting – less is more. When you think about the concept of foils you are forcing the hair into foils which gets hot, and you are essentially baking the hair. The process is rough. There is no movement and there is no colour in the face.

Where does your confidence come from?

Confidence comes from seeing the results.

In all my years of working in fashion and beauty I can truly say Abby is one of the most talented, humble and beautiful people I have ever come across. On a mission to educate people on caring for their hair, this European powerhouse is a force to be reckoned with.

A big thank you to Abby for taking the time to share her inspiring story and knowledge with me.

To book an appointment with Abby contact the Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa in NYC: 212-888-8988 or email frontdesk@julienfarel.com 

A little selfie action showcasing my balayaged locks: 

 

P.S. She really is as good as they all say! #teamabby

xo, Kiki